In Truckee the planting time depends upon your location. Gardeners in high altitude areas can usually start planting bulbs in late September. In high desert areas on the east side of Truckee it is usually best to wait until October before planting. Bulbs can be planted anytime from late fall through early spring if the bulbs are kept cool and dry. When there is a great deal of snow or if the soil surface is frozen then it is certainly less convenient to plant but the bulbs will perform perfectly. We've had excellent results planting bulbs in January, February and even once in March! Bearded Iris is an exception: it needs to be planted by early to mid September and no later.

If you wish to plant bulbs but you choose not to put them in the ground they can be planted in pots. The larger the container you use, the better your chances for success. Fill the pot with a quality potting soil and use bulb fertilizer. Make sure you allow ample drainage. In a large wine barrel plant bulbs as you would in the garden but keep the barrel out of the sun for the winter to avoid the thawing, freezing cycles that can damage the bulbs. In smaller wooden pots it seems to work well to bury the entire container under a foot or more of pine needles (or snow) in a shady spot. Clay pots usually disintegrate in our winters and are not a good choice for this purpose.

Bulb planting

Bulbs are the ultimate in no-maintenance plants and they look great anywhere you plant them, around a tree or mailbox, in a rock garden or even in a lawn. When you're making your bulb selections, look at the pictures on the bins in the shop for planting ideas. Generally speaking, most bulbs will thrive in loose soil amended with composted organic material. Kellogg's Amend is perfect compost for improving native soil and plenty should be mixed in. Good drainage is the one MUST. Add a fertilizer high in Phosphorous (the second number on a fertilizer label). Phosphorous builds strong roots and promotes large flowers. Dr. Earth Fish Bone Meal (3-18-0) is an excellent natural slow release fertilizer for bulbs.

Bulb Planning

The only outstanding design suggestion for bulb planting outdoors is to plant en masse. Bulbs look arresting when planted in large plots. It is easiest to dig one large hole 8 inches deep, add compost and fertilizer, and space out many bulbs therein. In the same hole, plant smaller bulbs in a shallow layer above the deeper, larger bulbs for greater effect with less work. Planting bulbs individually is much more time consuming. One rule of thumb is to space bulbs twice as far apart as they are wide (5-10/sq.ft.). Plant most bulbs so the tip of the bulb is twice as deep as the bulb is tall (or wide, whichever is greater). When planning for bulbs, remember to consider blooming time (March - August), height (1 inch - 4 feet), bloom size (1-10 inches) and color (every color of the rainbow to match with your other flowering shrubs and perennials

Winter cover of a loose mulch is helpful to bulbs in areas where the winter cover of snow is not reliable or constant through the winter. This is not to prevent frost or freezing, but to reduce alternate freezing and thawing that can ruin many plants. Bulbs in a lawn give your garden an early playful appearance of a wild meadow. They bloom and fade long before you'll ever need to mow. Crocus, Scilla and Chionodoxa are all excellent candidates for lawn bulbs. Plant in wide drifts of like colors and in time they will spread.

Woodland plantings use bulbs which "naturalize" (adapt and spread) in open shade. Bulbs add a cheerful display before many woodland perennials will be in bloom. "Woodland" Narcissus, Ice Follies daffodil, Anemone, Chionodoxa, Crocus and Scilla planted along with Ostrich and Lady fern, Coral bells, Bleeding heart, Forget-me-nots, Sweet woodruff and Hosta make a beautiful woodland planting. Fertilization each fall by scratching bulb food or bone meal into the soil greatly increases bulb performance.

Forcing hardy bulbs to bloom indoors

Many of the hardy outdoor bulb varieties can also be "forced" to bloom indoors. Hyacinths are probably the most widely forced bulb because of their sweet fragrance, compact size and ease of growth. Special bulb forcing glasses or ceramic pots are often used to enhance the effect. We offer Hyacinths in the largest, "forcing" size for better indoor blooms. Larger bulbs are also are the best in gardens. Anemone, Crocus, Grape Hyacinth, Scilla, Chionodoxa, Daffodils and Tulips can all be "forced".

Pot the forcing bulbs into well-draining potting soil with the tips just at the soil line. Water them in and set the pot in a cold (but not freezing: 35-45°F) location for 2-4 months, depending on the bulb. The minimum cold periods are:

• - Anemone, Muscari: 8-10 weeks
• - Chiondoxa, Scilla: 10-12 weeks
• - Hiacinths, Small Daffodils: 12-14 weeks
• -Tulips: 14-16 weeks

You can store the bulbs in paper bags in the refrigerator for a few weeks before planting in December. (this is a good idea with true bulbs as it allows the buds to further develop). Do not allow potted bulbs to dry out. Check them once a week. After the chilling period, bring bulbs gradually into a well lit room. When foliage begins to appear place in position of direct morning sun for one to two hours a day. When flowering begins put them where they can be enjoyed. After blooming, let the foliage grow until it turns yellow and then plant in the garden after winter.